Autumn gardening is all about upkeep and planning; determine which areas to prioritise. Autumn gardening is about preparing your garden for the winter months ahead while also enjoying the rewards of your summer labour. Autumn, an exciting season in the garden, not just for the falling leaves but also for gathering vegetables and fruits, trimming and tidying summer plants, and generally giving everything a little TLC love and care along with a good tidy up before the cold months arrive. Follow these ideas to keep your outside area looking nice during the fall and winter months.
CLEAR AWAY THE FURNITURE
If you entertained visitors during summer, now is the time to cover or store garden furniture to avoid weather damage. Bring any cooking equipment inside, including grills and utensils, and wrap chimeneas in waterproof coverings.
CLEAN PATIOS AND DECKING
Sweep and clean footpaths, patios, decks, and driveways regularly. Regularly sweeping your garden is essential if it is open and bordered by trees.
Falling leaves and damp weather conditions may create a dangerously slippery surface that, if left alone, can begin to decay.
A time-saving leaf blower is an essential piece of gardening equipment that you will use regularly. Sweep away leaves with a rigid outside brush and bag them up for composting.
Use a pressure washer and patio cleaner to remove dirt, grime, mildew, or algae from decks or patios.
CHECK YOUR OUTBUILDINGS
Winter weather may be harsh on greenhouses, gardens, and outbuildings. Keep the glass on greenhouses clean throughout the winter to make spring cleaning more manageable since dirt can accumulate over time and become difficult to remove. To avoid colour fading or wood damage, treat any wooden outbuildings with a weather-protection wood preserver.
Clear up and organise the insides of sheds and greenhouses in preparation for winter storage; this will make it simpler to find things when you return to gardening in the spring.
CARE FOR THE LAWN
Even in a dry winter, grass will require lots of water. If you notice brown areas on your grass, it's the lawn's way of telling you to give me a drink!
Cut your grass before the cold and rainy weather arrives, and trim back the borders to make spring upkeep easier.
Clear fallen leaves from the grass to avoid decay; a leaf blower is a fantastic replacement for a rake because it can do the same or even more than a rake but with less work. When you consider how much your time and physical condition are worth, it has relatively few drawbacks. It's a requirement for large homes and professional use.
HOW TO RECYCLE AUTUMN LEAVES
Autumn leaves are beautiful to look at, but gardens with older trees will have an abundance of them. However, leaves can be highly beneficial to gardens and can be recycled to provide garden mulch.
Consider the following:
When the leaf mulch is complete, mix it into the topsoil to open it up and encourage drainage and nutrient absorption.
You can mulch leaves into your lawn:
You'll need a mulching attachment or a lawnmower that can work without a grass collection box. Then the finely chopped-up leaves will gradually be reabsorbed into the earth. Include leaves in your compost pile: they are a great source of brown matter for your compost.
Make Leaf Mulch:
It may take some time (usually many years) but allowing your leaves to decay into leaf mould ultimately provides an excellent product for aerating your plant soil. And lawns.
GARDEN PLANTS AND POTS
Autumn gardening is all about getting your plants ready for winter by protecting them from waterlogging and frosts. Make sure you raise planted containers off the ground to avoid waterlogging and insulate the pots with hay, cardboard, or bubble wrap. Over the winter, store any empty and planted-up containers with care.
If you have any tender plants sensitive to cold weather, put them in the greenhouse or conservatory. Protect those planted in the garden with fleece or hessian. The first frost of the year might come unexpectedly and damage your favourite greenery.
BULBS FOR SPRING
Remember to plant bulbs from September to November if you want to see colourful daffodils, tulips, and other spring flowers in your yard next spring.
DON'T FORGET ABOUT THE WILDLIFE
Don't forget to take care of any animals that come to your garden. Make careful you leave out seeds, nuts, and water for the birds; this may be lifesaving during the winter months when food is limited, and the cold can be deadly. Make bug houses and set out good leftovers for other creatures you wish to invite to join your outdoor space.
The shelter is crucial for a hedgehog's survival throughout the winter. You may construct a hedgehog house out of woodpiles from November to March - select a peaceful area that is unlikely to be disturbed.
As the weather cools and becomes wetter, your plants become more susceptible to waterlogging, root rot, and, if sufficiently weakened, insect larvae. Mulch your plants' roots with wood chips, leaves, or pine needles.
WHAT IS A WOODCHIPPER?
A woodchipper (also known as a shredder) is a machine used to chip tree limbs, trunks, and branches. They make clean-up after vegetation upkeep much more manageable. Not only that, trucks can carry a considerably much larger load when the wood has chipped. Therefore a woodchipper dramatically reduces the time and budget necessary to carry out a forestry or garden clearance operation.
Branches cut from the trees get fed into a hopper with a safety collar; from here, they move down the hopper into the cutting mechanism (blades set on a rotating impeller). The wood is then blasted out as chips into a truck through a chute.
ARE WOODCHIPPERS DANGEROUS?
Safety in Woodchipper Operation. Industrial chippers are robust equipment that can cause significant injuries if handled or fed incorrectly. Here are some safety considerations to always keep in mind:
It will not speed up the task. The high-speed blade may force the excess material back, potentially hurting the operator. These have the potential to rebound off the edges and strike the operator.
Use caution while putting your hands near the hopper's mouth. If required, use a long branch to force stuff into the hopper and not your hands. Wearing baggy garments that might get sucked into the machine is not a good idea.
Do not load the machine with more tree debris than it can chip at one time. Check for stones, pebbles, metal, and other foreign objects in the tree debris you're feeding into the chipper. When working with a chipper, use safety gear to protect your hands, eyes, and head.
AUTUMN GARDENING: SEPTEMBER CROPS TO HARVEST
Autumn is harvest season in the garden, so whether you have a full-fledged vegetable garden or just a few shrubs and fruit trees, now is the time to harvest them. September is an excellent month for harvesting since it falls between summer and Autumn. So, you'll be able to harvest potatoes as well as late-season berries: there's so much to appreciate! (And cook and eat).
Maincrop potatoes. When the leaves on the plants start to turn yellow, cut them off and wait approximately a week before digging up your potatoes. Use the dry September days to cure them — that is, dry them off for roughly a week – before storing them for the winter. Choose a dark, secluded location and spread them out on old newspaper or canvas. They're then ready to keep in your basement or pantry.
September is also an excellent season for apple harvesting, and the process couldn't be more straightforward. What to do when deciding an apple is ready to harvest, place it in the palm of your hand and twist the stalk slightly. If it isn't coming off quickly, give it a few weeks more.
You can still expect raspberries in September, with several late-season varieties bearing fruit right up to the first frosts. Of course, excellent weather is essential here. Still, with the beautiful, mild September weather we've been experiencing, you're sure to see some berries. Ripe raspberries should be a deep red, not a brilliant red. Raspberries can be frozen, although they are best eaten soon after picking.
When the leaves begin to droop and become yellow, this shows that the onion is no longer developing and is ready for plucking (or removing with a garden fork). Likewise, it's not too late for onions, either: depending on the month you planted them, you should be able to lift them from summer until the first frosts.
If the weather is dry in September, you may cure them outside for a couple of days after picking. Still, if it's wet, you should lay them out indoors for a couple of days before storage.
TIPS FOR AUTUMN LAWN CARE
Autumn lawn care focuses on keeping your lawn looking beautiful as the leaves change and the temperature cools.
The hot summer months could have caused harm to your lawn, so caring for it correctly throughout the Autumn period is critical.
Listed below are a few suggestions on how to help your lawn repair itself and preparing your lawn for the coming winter months.
A good lawnmower is still essential, but there are a few other things you should do if you want healthy grass that will regenerate nicely next spring.
Scarification is a raking process carried out using a Scarifier, thus avoiding the formation of thatch in your lawn, thus promoting moss development and disease.
Aeration prevents soil compaction by enabling water and nutrients to enter correctly, necessary for healthy roots. A garden fork may be used to aerate the grass: go over the lawn area and poke through the surface of the lawn. Watch your toes and feet! Scarifying may be hard on your grass, but aerating it afterward can help replace water, air, and nutrients.
Early fall is ideal for reseeding since you will notice any barren areas that need reseeding. After you've sown the seeds, sprinkle the grass with a soil-and-sand combination. Take care not to bury the current grass beneath the mixture: it should still be visible.
After that, replenish the nutrients. Feed the grass with an autumn/winter-specific fertiliser with less nitrogen but more phosphorus and potassium than a summer fertiliser. Phosphate and potassium enhance root growth, allowing the lawn to get a good start in winter.
Raising the cut height to 30-40mm in Autumn is critical. It will assist the grass to be more robust through any warm spells.
Mulches fall into two types: biodegradable and non-biodegradable. Both types help control weeds by obstructing sunlight, which is needed for weed seeds to develop and flourish and preserve moisture by decreasing evaporation from the soil surface.
Mulches that decompose are biodegradable. These progressively degrade, releasing nutrients into the soil and aiding in soil structure improvement.
What makes good garden compost, wood chippings, processed conifer bark, leaf mould, well-rotted manure, straw, and seaweed are among the finest ingredients.
Non-biodegradable mulches do not improve soil fertility or structure. Still, they reduce weeds, retain moisture, and have added benefits as they can be attractive.
Flower beds can be slate, shingles, pebbles, gravel, stone chippings, and other ornamental materials. Dark-colored mulch will warm the soil in the sun, but light-colored mulch, such as white gravel, will reflect sunlight and keep roots more relaxed.
For new beds or borders, sheet mulches or woven landscape cloth, as well as weed membrane, can be utilised. After laying, make slits in the fabric to help direct planting through it. The disadvantage is that these mulches are unsightly, although disguised with gravel, bark, or other materials. Always use an absorbent sheet to allow rain and irrigation water to reach the roots since a waterproof coating may cause surface runoff and drainage issues elsewhere.
When should you use mulch?
Mulches are most effective in the mid to late spring, when annual weeds have not yet sprouted and herbaceous plants are dormant, and in the Autumn, when plants are dying back. Mulch around new plantings, mature flower beds, and specimen plants. All new plants that need to establish can be mulched at any time of year to benefit from weed suppression and soil moisture retention.
How to apply mulch
Beds and borders can be mulched but take care not to suffocate low-growing plants or avoid piling garden mulch up close to the stems of woody plants. Biodegradable mulches must be at least 5cm (2in) thick and ideally 7.5cm (3in) thick to be effective. Lay mulches over damp soil after removing weeds and while the ground is not frozen. Planting via mulch sheets is excellent for constructing new beds. Single trees and specimen shrubs should be mulched to the same circumference as the canopy radius.
Plants and microorganisms degrade over time. A biodegradable mulcher will feed your soil so that additional soluble feed is less needed.
Coverage of the ground. The most delicate left plants like Thymus are Mediterranean plants as they can store too much moisture around their stalks and leaves.
Mulches are typically not an issue if they are correctly spread. However, suppose they come into direct touch with the stems of trees or specimen shrubs. In that case, they can weaken the branch, leaving it more susceptible to disease. The organic material you use is essential than applying a thick enough layer to save water and control weeds. Thicker coatings will block weed sunlight, insulate the soil better, and minimise water evaporation.
Weeds, pests, and diseases may be introduced into the garden depending on the quality of the material. After adding mulch to the soil, you may need to apply more water to reach the roots of the plants beneath. Less water will evaporate, so you should need to water less regularly. Still, the mulch will also assist in rain sink into the soil.
Using newly chopped material such as woody pruning or grass clippings can stimulate soil microbes to thrive. Still, they may deplete nitrogen stores, leaving them less accessible for plant development. If you have newly chipped material, preserve it for a few weeks before utilising it.
It is not necessary to remove mulch before applying fertiliser.
In late winter, fertiliser is applied over mulches and is washed into plant roots by rain. By hoeing weeds growing in mulches surrounding permanent plants, you can avoid harming plant roots.
Hand-pull weeds and apply another layer of new mulch. Organic mulches are less challenging to manage since they may be spread easily by adding another layer after the previous layer has fully rotted away.
If gravel is not spread thick enough, it might mix with the underlying soil, promoting surface weeds.
It is not unusual to see the white fungal mycelium of innocuous saprophytic fungus in the soil that has been covered or supplemented with organic mulch. It is no cause for concern, and there is no need to remove the mulch or white fungal growth.
Hyundai Lawn Mowers
Hyundai Grass Trimmers & Brush Cutters
Hyundai Hedge Trimmers
Hyundai Leaf Blowers
Hyundai Wheeled Weeder
Pressure Pump Solutions Ltd. Approved Hyundai Dealer